La Guajira, a wide desert area in the north of Colombia, completely exceeded our expectations. What we had read about this region, the challenges, the poverty, and the special culture of the Wayuu people, turned out to be only part of the story. Our own experiences with overlanding in La Guajira and the journey from Cabo de la Vela to Punta de Gallinas colored this trip in ways we could never have imagined beforehand.
Spoiler alert!
Our experience is very different from what we had read and seen on various platforms beforehand. What we experienced here goes beyond what you can imagine.
Heading north: indigenous culture and first impressions
The northern part of Colombia is home to the Wayuu indigenous people, who seem to be in charge here. From what we’d read, it appeared that the local police had little authority in this region. Though we didn’t encounter any concrete issues, we sometimes felt uncomfortable due to the strong contrasts between our comfortable camper and the simplicity of local life. Perhaps it was culture shock, our own prejudices, or the stories we had heard, nevertheless something to think about during the endless kilometers.
We were still in Cartagena, where we had cleared our camper, but soon decided to head north. Our motivation? We wanted to explore the desert, test our vehicle on sandy terrain and in the heat, and ultimately reach the northernmost point of South America: Punta Gallinas.
However, we had some doubts. We read many stories of roadblocks and poverty in the region. After much consideration, we decided to tackle that decision later and instead began our journey toward Cabo de la Vela.
Cabo de la Vela: desert routes and culture shock
On our way to Cabo de la Vela we soon notice that the distances here are not comparable to Europe. Not only do they seem shorter on the map, but the kilometers you travel per hour are considerably less.
A large part of the route takes us on an asphalt road, which alternates between slums, villages and towns. Although we didn’t feel entirely comfortable, there were no issues. Yet (in retrospect) we sometimes have the feeling that this discomfort has more to do with culture shock than with the actual situation.
After hours of driving, we exchanged the asphalt for gravel roads. We let some air out of our tires, ensuring a smoother ride over these rough paths. On washboard gravel roads, finding the right speed is important — for us 90 km/h was the perfect cadence for driving over the bumps.
For the final part to Cabo de la Vela, we left the main road and took a back route meandering through rolling landscapes full of cacti and endless views. This is exactly why you have a 4×4! When we arrive in the village we are surprised by the poor appearance. Wooden huts and sandy paths created a contrast to what we had envisioned. However, we soon noticed that many residents didn’t seem to be struggling as much as we had imagined, as we saw people with new iPhones and golden necklaces.
Kitesurfing in Cabo de la Vela
We decided to spend a week in Cabo de la Vela, camping near Tawi’s Kiteschool, where we received kitesurfing lessons from a world champion. For the young people in the village, kitesurfing is both a hobby and an opportunity. After a week of lessons, we were both able to stand on the board and control the kite fairly well!
During the day, the steady wind of around 5 Beaufort makes kitesurfing perfect, and our camper held up surprisingly well. Temperatures above 30 degrees made sleeping a challenge, but the breeze that flows through the tent in the evening, with both sides and the back unzipped, made it much more bearable. We often found ourselves thinking back to our previous high-cab camper, which was impossible to cool at night.
Punta de Gallinas: the route with many roadblocks
Whether we would continue north to the farthest point of South America, we weren’t entirely sure. We had heard multiple stories about roadblocks where locals demand “tolls” in the form of rice, candies, or coffee. We learned from the owner of the kiteschool that, in most cases, tolls weren’t asked because of poverty, but started from a tradition originated from tourists and guides who once handed out sweets,
After a week in Cabo de la Vela, we decided to continue to Punta de Gallinas. We met a Swiss traveler who wanted to join us, and with four seats available, it wasn’t an issue to bring her along.
Shortly after leaving the main road, we encountered our first roadblock. A woman approached the car silently, holding out her hand with a look that clearly indicated, “You know what to do”. We handed over some coffee, but to our surprise, she threw it back, claiming it wasn’t the right brand. Eventually, she demanded money, but even that wasn’t enough for her. After about 40 minutes of negotiation, she finally let us pass.
This scene repeated itself about 20 to 30 times in just the first village. We often noticed people who looked surprisingly healthy, wearing gold jewelry and using iPhones, which made us question the stories of extreme poverty we had read about on blogs and vlogs.
Poverty in La Guajira
However, there are exceptions! Halfway along the route, we encountered another roadblock, but the residents had already lowered the ropes before we arrived. A young family stood at the side of the road, asking for “agua.” They appeared to be in poor condition, so we decided to stop. We asked if they had a water bottle of their own, and soon one was brought to us. We filled it, and watched as they took big sips and turns drinking from it, almost emptying it before we could drive away.
It was sad to see their thirst, so we decided to refill the bottle another time. As we backed up, we saw their surprised faces. When we offered to refill the bottle again, they finishing the bottle in a few seconds. We refill the bottle a second time, and are very touched by their joy over something so simple and accessible to us. Even while traveling we do not worry at all about clean drinking water. We have 93 litres on board and use a filter to ensure that there is always clean drinking water.
Navigating the route through La Guajira
The route to Punta de Gallinas was even more challenging than the one to Cabo de la Vela. The sandy paths became increasingly unclear, and we constantly had to navigate carefully to avoid getting stuck in mud or the wrong area. The threat of guerrilla fighters in the east and the risk of getting stuck in the west made the journey exiting. At one point, we accidentally drove into a muddy section. Without any anchor points around us to get unstuck, Jerry got out to inspect the situation. A short distance ahead, he sank into the soft ground, and we knew continuing wasn’t an option. Carefully, we backed up and followed some of the many other tire tracks in the area.
Our activities in Punta de Gallinas
After over 10 hours of driving, we arrived at the first hostel, where the reception is anything but welcoming, and the place wasn’t very clean, which is why our guest declined renting a room. Despite the fact that it is quickly getting dark, we decided to keep searching for something better. At the second hostel, we received a much warmer welcome. There were plenty of tourists, our guest found a comfortable place to sleep, and in the evening, we attended a storytelling session about the indigenous Wayuu people. Unfortunately, the session was entirely in Spanish, so we couldn’t follow everything.
Most tourists visit Punta Gallinas on guided tours and stay for just one night. Fortunately, we had the freedom to decide for ourselves, so we planned a full day in Punta de Gallinas. In the morning we went kitesurfing on the beautiful flat waters along the mangroves — truly breathtaking! After our kite session, we visited the northernmost point of South America. The location itself was a bit underwhelming, but the concept was rewarding. We took some photos and returned to the hostel for another night of rest.
Return journey: challenges and speed
When we leave for our return journey, we started driving alongside a local tour guide and decided to follow him. After a short distance, he warned us that the route ahead would be challenging and that a 4×4 was essential. We assured him we had a 4×4, which reassures him. We soon drive through beautiful sand dunes, but realized too late that we had forgotten to engage the 4×4 system. Thankfully, we didn’t get stuck and continued driving.
The guide maintained a high speed, driving through the desert at around 80 km/h. Jerry remained fully focused on the road, while Anniek and our guest were busy navigating and attempting to film. Upon reaching the first roadblocks, the guide instructed us not to give anything. After some negotiations, the ropes were loosened, and we were allowed to pass.
The guide’s techniques varied greatly. Sometimes he would drive through the barriers at 40-50 km/h, while other times he would stop. Sometimes we formed a line bumper to bumper to prevent the locals from raising the barriers between us. A few locals managed to lift the barriers, but braking within a meter at such high speeds was simply not possible. Our camper ended up with a visible scar from a chain that was stretched across the road, but let’s call that a memory.
Despite these challenges, we managed to keep close to the guide. He and his passengers were impressed that we could keep up, and we were incredibly proud of how our camper handled the rugged terrain and the speed. The return journey, which took us 10 hours on the outward journey, was completed in just 4 hours, making for an intense but unforgettable experience.
Conclusion: an unforgettable experience in La Guajira
Overlanding in La Guajira offers a unique combination of rough landscapes, local culture, and demanding routes. Although we were disappointed by the behavior of some of the locals, the stunning views and interesting experiences made it all worthwhile. For adventure enthusiasts and 4×4 lovers, this is a destination you won’t want to miss.
Practical tips for overlanding in La Guajira
- Travel time: Allow more time than you think, as the routes are longer and more challenging than anticipated.
- Equipment: Ensure you have a reliable 4×4 and a generous water and diesel supply.
- Tolls en roadblocks: Bring small gifts like coffee, rice, or water, but be prepared to negotiate.
- Accommodation: Carefully choose your overnight stops, as the quality can vary greatly. We stayed with our camper at Hostal Kijoru where we had a great time.