Cartagena de Indias: discover the charm of the city and its rich history
While our car is on its way to Colombia by boat, we already went ahead to Cartagena de Indias. The goal? To acclimate to life there and take some much-needed time to relax. The period leading up to shipping the car was intense, and now, it’s finally time for a vacation. The journey goes relatively smoothly, with layovers in Paris and Bogotá. After approximately 21 hours of travel, we finally arrive at our hotel in Cartagena de Indias.
Our time in Cartagena de Indias is largely spent working. Of course, we also made sure to take time to explore the city as tourists. Initially, the city felt busy and chaotic, but as our two-week stay progressed, we got used to the rhythm of the city.
The history of Cartagena de Indias
Cartagena de Indias has a rich history that dates back to the Spanish colonial era. The city’s residents have a proud memory of the Spanish influence, while the attacks by the English and French are less prominently remembered. These periods of occupation have left Cartagena with a multicultural identity, with influences of Indigenous peoples, Europeans, and Africans. Today’s generations in Cartagena de Indias are often a mix of these diverse backgrounds, resulting in different physical features within families. Remarkably, racism does not appear to be a widespread problem in this city.
Cartagena de Indias lies just above sea level, which is evident in its open drainage systems, which channel rainwater throughout the city. The tidal shifts are clearly visible in the open wells, and during high tides or heavy rainfall, parts of the city can flood. This is reinforced by the city’s history, as much of Cartagena was once under the sea level, but was raised by the Spanish during colonial times. Around Cartagena are several strategically placed forts and walls that once protected the city from pirate and foreign attacks. During the colonial times, the city served as a warehouse for gold and emeralds, which were transported from the mines in the midlands to Spain.
Tourism and culture in Cartagena de Indias
Today, Cartagena de Indias’ historic old town is completely reliant on tourism. Within the old city walls only some locals are left, as many of the buildings have been transformed for tourism purposes. For visitors, the old town feels safe and welcoming, with many street vendors offering local products as food, jewelry, and clothing. While they enthusiastically try to make a sale, a simple “no” is respected, and they’ll leave you to enjoy your stroll through the vibrant streets.
Cartagena de Indias offers several neighborhoods to explore, each with its own unique charm and character:
- Centro, the historical center with beautiful colonial buildings.
- Getsemaní is known to be the most colorful neighborhood, famous for its street art and flags that decorate the streets.
- San Diego is more quite and chic, ideal for those looking for a less crowded environment.
Outside the city walls, many tourists stay in the more affordable neighborhood of Manga or the luxurious Bocagrande, where you can admire Cartagena’s impressive skyline. During our visit, we stayed in Centro, Getsemaní, and Manga, and noticed that staying within the city walls felt much livelier and safer, especially in the evenings. Cartagena offers a varied cuisine; you can enjoy a three-course meal at local eateries for just €3-4 per person, or indulge in Western-style restaurants where a main course typically costs between €10-15.
The city park in Cartagena de Indias
In the middle of the city walls you can find the city park. This park is frequently used by locals during a break, and you’ll find plenty of food carts offering snacks. For tourists, the park is a popular attraction, known for the monkeys, sloths, and iguanas that can be spotted roaming freely. While the animals live here ‘freely’, they don’t have many alternative habitats within the city.
Local adventure: city tour and travel tips
We took a city tour with a local guide, which we highly recommend. The guide showed us around key historic sites and explained local sayings. One such saying was “no dar papaya“ (literally meaning “don’t give papaya”), which translates to “don’t show what you have.” It’s a reminder to avoid showing valuables like expensive jewelry, smartphones, or cameras, especially outside the city walls. Within the old town, it’s generally safe to carry such items, but outside the city walls, both tourists and locals need to be more careful, especially at night.
We also visited the Maritime Museum, where we learned more about the history of Cartagena de Indias, including the naval battles and periods of occupation. The museum is mostly in Spanish, so if you don’t speak the language, a translation app is a useful option. The museum’s layout is quite unique since the naval battles were set up in models, making the history feel more tangible. It’s a must-visit if you’re interested in learning more about Cartagena’s rich past.
In addition to the Maritime Museum, we also visited one of the many forts still standing in Cartagena de Indias. The most famous is San Felipe de Barajas Castle, which you simply cannot miss. A large Colombian flag flies proudly on top of the fort, and is visible from many rooftops in the old town. While the information inside is somewhat limited, there’s a history film you can watch in the former hospital within the fort, featuring English subtitles.
Driving in Cartagena de Indias
The traffic in Cartagena de Indias can feel chaotic. Two-lane roads are often used as four-lane highways, with motorcycles weaving through the traffic. Double solid lines seem mainly decorative and roadside signs are often ignored. Yet, there seems to be an unspoken respect when it comes to claiming your space. We noticed very little aggression or accidents, which was surprising given the chaotic conditions. It’s often said that if you can drive in Cartagena de Indias, you can drive anywhere in South America. With that in mind, we will see if we encounter anything worse than what we experienced here.
Our next adventure will be traveling through the north of Colombia with our camper. We are still in doubt whether we will head to Punta de Gallinas because of the many roadblocks. Read our next blog to find out!
Our tips
Dining in Cartagena de Indias:
- Delicious Italian restaurant: Di Silvio Trattoria
- Great steakhouse: Lena & Carbon (Centro) [10.424692204207888, -75.5511610132479]
Our favorites are the fish (Mojarra frita) and tenderloin (Lomo lino). - Budget-friendly local eateries: Carrera 10 (Getsemaní)
Culture in Cartagena de Indias:
- Maritime Museum: Museo Naval del Caribe
- San Felipe de Barajas Castle: Visit in the morning when the temperatures are still pleasant. The crowds tend to build in the afternoon. Don’t miss the history film shown in the former “hospital” within the fort.
Tip to discuss before driving in a foreign country:
It’s a good idea to discuss beforehand how to handle dangerous situations. We noticed Jerry tends to push more in traffic and is quicker to continue driving through tricky situations. For this reason, Jerry is likely to take on city driving and potentially riskier conditions.