Heading north: indigenous culture and first impressions

The northern part of Colombia is home to the Wayuu indigenous people, who seem to be in charge here. From what we’d read, it appeared that the local police had little authority in this region. Though we didn’t encounter any concrete issues, we sometimes felt uncomfortable due to the strong contrasts between our comfortable camper and the simplicity of local life. Perhaps it was culture shock, our own prejudices, or the stories we had heard, nevertheless something to think about during the endless kilometers.

We were still in Cartagena, where we had cleared our camper, but soon decided to head north. Our motivation? We wanted to explore the desert, test our vehicle on sandy terrain and in the heat, and ultimately reach the northernmost point of South America: Punta Gallinas.

However, we had some doubts. We read many stories of roadblocks and poverty in the region. After much consideration, we decided to tackle that decision later and instead began our journey toward Cabo de la Vela. 

Cabo de la Vela: desert routes and culture shock  

On our way to Cabo de la Vela we soon notice that the distances here are not comparable to Europe. Not only do they seem shorter on the map, but the kilometers you travel per hour are considerably less.

A large part of the route takes us on an asphalt road, which alternates between slums, villages and towns. Although we didn’t feel entirely comfortable, there were no issues. Yet (in retrospect) we sometimes have the feeling that this discomfort has more to do with culture shock than with the actual situation.

After hours of driving, we exchanged the asphalt for gravel roads. We let some air out of our tires, ensuring a smoother ride over these rough paths. On washboard gravel roads, finding the right speed is important — for us 90 km/h was the perfect cadence for driving over the bumps.

For the final part to Cabo de la Vela, we left the main road and took a back route meandering through rolling landscapes full of cacti and endless views. This is exactly why you have a 4×4! When we arrive in the village we are surprised by the poor appearance. Wooden huts and sandy paths created a contrast to what we had envisioned. However, we soon noticed that many residents didn’t seem to be struggling as much as we had imagined, as we saw people with new iPhones and golden necklaces.

Kitesurfing in Cabo de la Vela  

We decided to spend a week in Cabo de la Vela, camping near Tawi’s Kiteschool, where we received kitesurfing lessons from a world champion. For the young people in the village, kitesurfing is both a hobby and an opportunity. After a week of lessons, we were both able to stand on the board and control the kite fairly well!

During the day, the steady wind of around 5 Beaufort makes kitesurfing perfect, and our camper held up surprisingly well. Temperatures above 30 degrees made sleeping a challenge, but the breeze that flows through the tent in the evening, with both sides and the back unzipped, made it much more bearable. We often found ourselves thinking back to our previous high-cab camper, which was impossible to cool at night.

Punta de Gallinas: the route with many roadblocks

Whether we would continue north to the farthest point of South America, we weren’t entirely sure. We had heard multiple stories about roadblocks where locals demand “tolls” in the form of rice, candies, or coffee. We learned from the owner of the kiteschool that, in most cases, tolls weren’t asked because of poverty, but started from a tradition originated from tourists and guides who once handed out sweets,

After a week in Cabo de la Vela, we decided to continue to Punta de Gallinas. We met a Swiss traveler who wanted to join us, and with four seats available, it wasn’t an issue to bring her along.

Shortly after leaving the main road, we encountered our first roadblock. A woman approached the car silently, holding out her hand with a look that clearly indicated, “You know what to do”. We handed over some coffee, but to our surprise, she threw it back, claiming it wasn’t the right brand. Eventually, she demanded money, but even that wasn’t enough for her. After about 40 minutes of negotiation, she finally let us pass.

This scene repeated itself about 20 to 30 times in just the first village. We often noticed people who looked surprisingly healthy, wearing gold jewelry and using iPhones, which made us question the stories of extreme poverty we had read about on blogs and vlogs.

Poverty in La Guajira

However, there are exceptions! Halfway along the route, we encountered another roadblock, but the residents had already lowered the ropes before we arrived. A young family stood at the side of the road, asking for “agua.” They appeared to be in poor condition, so we decided to stop. We asked if they had a water bottle of their own, and soon one was brought to us. We filled it, and watched as they took big sips and turns drinking from it, almost emptying it before we could drive away.

It was sad to see their thirst, so we decided to refill the bottle another time. As we backed up, we saw their surprised faces. When we offered to refill the bottle again, they finishing the bottle in a few seconds. We refill the bottle a second time, and are very touched by their joy over something so simple and accessible to us. Even while traveling we do not worry at all about clean drinking water. We have 93 litres on board and use a filter to ensure that there is always clean drinking water.

Navigating the route through La Guajira

The route to Punta de Gallinas was even more challenging than the one to Cabo de la Vela. The sandy paths became increasingly unclear, and we constantly had to navigate carefully to avoid getting stuck in mud or the wrong area. The threat of guerrilla fighters in the east and the risk of getting stuck in the west made the journey exiting. At one point, we accidentally drove into a muddy section. Without any anchor points around us to get unstuck, Jerry got out to inspect the situation. A short distance ahead, he sank into the soft ground, and we knew continuing wasn’t an option. Carefully, we backed up and followed some of the many other tire tracks in the area.

Our activities in Punta de Gallinas

After over 10 hours of driving, we arrived at the first hostel, where the reception is anything but welcoming, and the place wasn’t very clean, which is why our guest declined renting a room. Despite the fact that it is quickly getting dark, we decided to keep searching for something better. At the second hostel, we received a much warmer welcome. There were plenty of tourists, our guest found a comfortable place to sleep, and in the evening, we attended a storytelling session about the indigenous Wayuu people. Unfortunately, the session was entirely in Spanish, so we couldn’t follow everything.

Most tourists visit Punta Gallinas on guided tours and stay for just one night. Fortunately, we had the freedom to decide for ourselves, so we planned a full day in Punta de Gallinas. In the morning we went kitesurfing on the beautiful flat waters along the mangroves — truly breathtaking! After our kite session, we visited the northernmost point of South America. The location itself was a bit underwhelming, but the concept was rewarding. We took some photos and returned to the hostel for another night of rest.

Return journey: challenges and speed  

When we leave for our return journey, we started driving alongside a local tour guide and decided to follow him. After a short distance, he warned us that the route ahead would be challenging and that a 4×4 was essential. We assured him we had a 4×4, which reassures him. We soon drive through beautiful sand dunes, but realized too late that we had forgotten to engage the 4×4 system. Thankfully, we didn’t get stuck and continued driving.

The guide maintained a high speed, driving through the desert at around 80 km/h. Jerry remained fully focused on the road, while Anniek and our guest were busy navigating and attempting to film. Upon reaching the first roadblocks, the guide instructed us not to give anything. After some negotiations, the ropes were loosened, and we were allowed to pass.

The guide’s techniques varied greatly. Sometimes he would drive through the barriers at 40-50 km/h, while other times he would stop. Sometimes we formed a line bumper to bumper to prevent the locals from raising the barriers between us. A few locals managed to lift the barriers, but braking within a meter at such high speeds was simply not possible. Our camper ended up with a visible scar from a chain that was stretched across the road, but let’s call that a memory.

Despite these challenges, we managed to keep close to the guide. He and his passengers were impressed that we could keep up, and we were incredibly proud of how our camper handled the rugged terrain and the speed. The return journey, which took us 10 hours on the outward journey, was completed in just 4 hours, making for an intense but unforgettable experience.

Conclusion: an unforgettable experience in La Guajira

Overlanding in La Guajira offers a unique combination of rough landscapes, local culture, and demanding routes. Although we were disappointed by the behavior of some of the locals, the stunning views and interesting experiences made it all worthwhile. For adventure enthusiasts and 4×4 lovers, this is a destination you won’t want to miss.

Practical tips for overlanding in La Guajira

• Travel time: Allow more time than you think, as the routes are longer and more challenging than anticipated.  
• Equipment: Ensure you have a reliable 4×4 and a generous water and diesel supply.
• Tolls en roadblocks: Bring small gifts like coffee, rice, or water, but be prepared to negotiate.
• Accommodation: Carefully choose your overnight stops, as the quality can vary greatly. We stayed with our camper at Hostal Kijoru where we had a great time.

Het bericht La Guajira: Cabo de la Vela & Punta de Gallinas verscheen eerst op Land Roamer.

While our car is on its way to Colombia by boat, we already went ahead to Cartagena de Indias. The goal? To acclimate to life there and take some much-needed time to relax. The period leading up to shipping the car was intense, and now, it’s finally time for a vacation. The journey goes relatively smoothly, with layovers in Paris and Bogotá. After approximately 21 hours of travel, we finally arrive at our hotel in Cartagena de Indias.

Our time in Cartagena de Indias is largely spent working. Of course, we also made sure to take time to explore the city as tourists. Initially, the city felt busy and chaotic, but as our two-week stay progressed, we got used to the rhythm of the city.

The history of Cartagena de Indias

Cartagena de Indias has a rich history that dates back to the Spanish colonial era. The city’s residents have a proud memory of the Spanish influence, while the attacks by the English and French are less prominently remembered. These periods of occupation have left Cartagena with a multicultural identity, with influences of Indigenous peoples, Europeans, and Africans. Today’s generations in Cartagena de Indias are often a mix of these diverse backgrounds, resulting in different physical features within families. Remarkably, racism does not appear to be a widespread problem in this city.

Cartagena de Indias lies just above sea level, which is evident in its open drainage systems, which channel rainwater throughout the city. The tidal shifts are clearly visible in the open wells, and during high tides or heavy rainfall, parts of the city can flood. This is reinforced by the city’s history, as much of Cartagena was once under the sea level, but was raised by the Spanish during colonial times. Around Cartagena are several strategically placed forts and walls that once protected the city from pirate and foreign attacks. During the colonial times, the city served as a warehouse for gold and emeralds, which were transported from the mines in the midlands to Spain.

Tourism and culture in Cartagena de Indias

Today, Cartagena de Indias’ historic old town is completely reliant on tourism. Within the old city walls only some locals are left, as many of the buildings have been transformed for tourism purposes. For visitors, the old town feels safe and welcoming, with many street vendors offering local products as food, jewelry, and clothing. While they enthusiastically try to make a sale, a simple “no” is respected, and they’ll leave you to enjoy your stroll through the vibrant streets.

Cartagena de Indias offers several neighborhoods to explore, each with its own unique charm and character:

• Centro, the historical center with beautiful colonial buildings.
• Getsemaní is known to be the most colorful neighborhood, famous for its street art and flags that decorate the streets.
• San Diego is more quite and chic, ideal for those looking for a less crowded environment.

Outside the city walls, many tourists stay in the more affordable neighborhood of Manga or the luxurious Bocagrande, where you can admire Cartagena’s impressive skyline. During our visit, we stayed in Centro, Getsemaní, and Manga, and noticed that staying within the city walls felt much livelier and safer, especially in the evenings. Cartagena offers a varied cuisine; you can enjoy a three-course meal at local eateries for just €3-4 per person, or indulge in Western-style restaurants where a main course typically costs between €10-15.

The city park in Cartagena de Indias

In the middle of the city walls you can find the city park. This park is frequently used by locals during a break, and you’ll find plenty of food carts offering snacks. For tourists, the park is a popular attraction, known for the monkeys, sloths, and iguanas that can be spotted roaming freely. While the animals live here ‘freely’, they don’t have many alternative habitats within the city.

Local adventure: city tour and travel tips

We took a city tour with a local guide, which we highly recommend. The guide showed us around key historic sites and explained local sayings. One such saying was “no dar papaya“ (literally meaning “don’t give papaya”), which translates to “don’t show what you have.” It’s a reminder to avoid showing valuables like expensive jewelry, smartphones, or cameras, especially outside the city walls. Within the old town, it’s generally safe to carry such items, but outside the city walls, both tourists and locals need to be more careful, especially at night.

We also visited the Maritime Museum, where we learned more about the history of Cartagena de Indias, including the naval battles and periods of occupation. The museum is mostly in Spanish, so if you don’t speak the language, a translation app is a useful option. The museum’s layout is quite unique since the naval battles were set up in models, making the history feel more tangible. It’s a must-visit if you’re interested in learning more about Cartagena’s rich past.

In addition to the Maritime Museum, we also visited one of the many forts still standing in Cartagena de Indias. The most famous is San Felipe de Barajas Castle, which you simply cannot miss. A large Colombian flag flies proudly on top of the fort, and is visible from many rooftops in the old town. While the information inside is somewhat limited, there’s a history film you can watch in the former hospital within the fort, featuring English subtitles.

Driving in Cartagena de Indias

The traffic in Cartagena de Indias can feel chaotic. Two-lane roads are often used as four-lane highways, with motorcycles weaving through the traffic. Double solid lines seem mainly decorative and roadside signs are often ignored. Yet, there seems to be an unspoken respect when it comes to claiming your space. We noticed very little aggression or accidents, which was surprising given the chaotic conditions. It’s often said that if you can drive in Cartagena de Indias, you can drive anywhere in South America. With that in mind, we will see if we encounter anything worse than what we experienced here.

Our next adventure will be traveling through the north of Colombia with our camper. We are still in doubt whether we will head to Punta de Gallinas because of the many roadblocks. Read our next blog to find out!

Our tips

Dining in Cartagena de Indias:

• Delicious Italian restaurant: Di Silvio Trattoria
• Great steakhouse: Lena & Carbon (Centro) [10.424692204207888, -75.5511610132479]
  Our favorites are the fish (Mojarra frita) and tenderloin (Lomo lino).
• Budget-friendly local eateries: Carrera 10 (Getsemaní) 

Culture in Cartagena de Indias:

• Maritime Museum: Museo Naval del Caribe
• San Felipe de Barajas Castle: Visit in the morning when the temperatures are still pleasant. The crowds tend to build in the afternoon. Don’t miss the history film shown in the former “hospital” within the fort.

Tip to discuss before driving in a foreign country:
It’s a good idea to discuss beforehand how to handle dangerous situations. We noticed Jerry tends to push more in traffic and is quicker to continue driving through tricky situations. For this reason, Jerry is likely to take on city driving and potentially riskier conditions.

Het bericht Cartagena de Indias verscheen eerst op Land Roamer.